Archive for October, 2008
What’s in Your Jewelry Box?
So, do you have any undiscovered vintage costume jewelry treasures in your jewelry box? Pieces you've had for forever, but never wear anymore?
Before you toss those vintage pieces or donate them, take a look at what you have; they may be worth more than you think! Or at least worth something to someone else. Here's a story that unfolded yesterday.
My friend Jennie and I were chatting about costume jewelry, and she mentioned that she was putting together a pile for an end-of-year donation, along with clothes and such. Since we live pretty far apart, I asked her to take some photos of those pieces before she donated them, as there could possibly be vintage signed pieces.
Most indeed were vintage, as provenance would have it. Jennie bought a lot of brooches and earrings in the 1980's from places like Casual Corner, Macy's etc. to wear to work with her suits. For years and years, most have been languishing in the bottom of her jewelry box.
Costume Jewelry Brooch by 1928
Here's one costume jewelry brooch from the mid-1980's signed 1928 (1928 is a jewelry manufacturer, not the date it was made). While it's not really a collectible (yet!), I liked it so much that I bought it from Jennie.
So, even if what you have isn't a valuable collectible, it may still be worth something to a friend or relative or co-worker who enjoys vintage jewelry styles.
Oh Christmas Tree, Oh Christmas Tree
Signed Christmas Tree Pin from the 1970s
So what else did Jennie have tucked away? Well, there was a Christmas tree pin that was at least 30 years old. I asked if it was signed and Jennie said yes, but she couldn't make out the signature. Yep, it's time for a magnifying glass!
I suggested that Jennie not donate that pin yet, until she could determine who the pin was signed by. Dating back to the 1970's, it could very well be a collectible. If nothing else, it's quite pretty. But Christmas trees are a hot commodity, especially when they have provenance behind them.
Is the tree worth anything on the vintage market? Hard to tell, without knowing the signature, but it sure is pretty!
(If you've ready my Christmas jewelry post you know that I'm not quite into vintage Christmas collectibles yet...but I have a bid on one! So one day I'll know more about them.)
What's in Your Jewelry Box Right Now?
OK, you may be starting your vintage jewelry collection right now, without even realizing it! Do you have jewelry that you bought in the 1980s or earlier? Well, they are certainly vintage, but here's what to do next.
You'll usually need either a magnifying glass or a jewler's loupe to see any signatures, but some are signed more readily. Anything that has a signature, put it in one pile. Put the unsigned pieces in another. And if you have unsigned Christmas jewelry, put that into a third pile.
For your signed pieces, get a piece of paper and write down the signature, a quick description of the piece and its approximate age. Also note if the signature includes a copywrite symbol or not.
On another piece of paper, do the same thing for your unsigned pieces. And then a third time for your Christmas jewelry.
OK, are they worth anything on the vintage collectible market? Well, check any of the following links for the most common signatures you might find; they'll take you to ebay where you can check the listings for approximate values:
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I'll talk more about this subject in another post, but meanwhile, here's some more eye candy for you to enjoy!
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 DE Juliana Bolero Look Necklace and Earrings  US $69.99
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 VINTAGE JULIANA RIVOLI RHINESTONE BROOCH PIN EARRINGS US $20.50
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 Juliana Red Pink Aurora Borealis Rhinestone Earrings US $9.00
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 Vintage HIGH END Jewelry LOT18 DEMISETSJULIANAWEISS US $191.50
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 Magnificent Juliana Opal Glass Borealis Rhinestone Pin US $15.32
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 VINTAGE JULIANA TOPAZ YELLOW TOPAZ BROOCH EARRINGS US $19.99
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 LARG VINTAGE Juliana RED MOLDED BROOCH PIN Fruit Salad US $37.00
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 Juliana Earrings Slim Amber Navettes Filigree Balls US $29.50
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 JULIANA SEMI PARURE US $250.00
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Costume Jewelry Sets or Single Pieces?
Should you buy only costume jewelry sets, or are single pieces OK to buy? As you're building your vintage jewelry collection, it's a question that you'll have to eventually consider.
While it's usually true that a set is worth more than the sum of its parts, it's also true that not all vintage costume jewelry was made in sets, especially prior to the 1950s.
Still, it's a valid question -- to buy parures (sets) or stay with single items. Let's chat about it some.
Demi Parure Versus Full Parure
As I mentioned previously, a parure is just another name for a set. The costume jewelry set can be two items (a demi parure), a parure (three items) or a full parure (four items). And just a note, earrings count as one item, even though I've occasionally seen them listed as two (presumably one per ear). 
Now here comes the fun. Some demi sets can actually be "full" if the set originally only came with two items. An example might be earrings and a brooch, or perhaps earrings and a necklace. However, since these are more the exception than the rule, I'll refer to a two-piece set as a demi.
Since vintage costume jewelry is 20 or more years old (and the really collectible items are from the 1930s through 1960s), an intact set is a little harder to come by. After all, how many times have you tossed a piece of fashion jewelry if a part broke (or if you just didn't like it anymore)? Therefore a vintage jewelry set is worth more.
- Costume Jewelry Set by Trifari (Click to Enlarge)
Should You Buy Costume Jewelry Sets or Individual Items?
There are two schools of thought here. One is that buying sets makes it easier to have everything altogether. The other thought is you can buy things separately and then collect the set piece by piece.
And there's yet another thought; you may want to specialize in collecting just pins or just necklaces or something of the sort. If that's the case, then sets won't generally be what you're looking for.
All are valid points of view. The trick when going the piece-by-piece routie is finding the pieces of the set without duplicating yourself! (Or sometimes it's just finding other pieces.) For example, with the photo shown on this post, I purchased it as a parure. I've since seen demi parures offered of this same set. I hope that if one day I find a matching necklace, it also won't be as part of a demi!
Personally, I like to do both -- purchase costume jewelry sets as well as individual items. While my preference is for at least a demi parure, that doesn't always happen. Besides, it's kind of fun to hunt down missing pieces of the puzzle, and quite a thrill when you find them!
I'll leave you today with some parure auctions to enjoy. Below is a small sampling, while you can find a more .
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 VINTAGE ART BLUE GREEN RHINESTONE DEMI PARURE NICE US $29.99
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 Vtg West German Pink Beaded Demi Parure STUNNING US $9.99
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 Vintage SHERMAN Rhinestone Brooch Earrings Demi Parure US $79.99
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 VINTAGE PARURE BROOCH PIN EARRINGS PEARL CROWN TRIFARI US $5.99
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 Vintage 50s CORO Demi Parure Brooch Earrings US $65.00
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 BSK Parure Set Necklace Bracelet and Earrings US $10.50
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 Vtg BSK Signed AB RHINESTONE Necklace FULL PARURE Set US $21.50
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 Vtg 4pc BSK Signed RHINESTONE Necklace FULL PARURE Set US $14.25
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JULIANA SEMI PARURE US $250.00
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Vintage Costume Jewelry Earrings
Are you on the hunt for costume jewelry earrings? It's fun, isn't it! But are there things you should know before you buy that pair you're eyeing? Yes indeed, so let's talk about it.
What Kind of Vintage Earrings to Buy?
As I mentioned in the costume jewelry brooch post, you first want to determine the "why" in buying them -- to wear, for an investment, etc.
Costume Jewelry Earrings by Lisner (Click to Enlarge)
Let's say you want to wear them, as well as keep them for an investment. The first thing to consider is that the vast majority of vintage costume jewelry earrings are either clipback or screwback -- not pierced.
It's really only the newest of the vintage costume jewelry earrings that are pierced. So if you want to stay in the 1940s through mid 1960's (the most collectible time period), they very likely will be clipbacks or screwbacks.
So with that in mind, you need to make sure that the clipbacks are tight and the screwbacks still have the threads in working order. Otherwise, you're just as likely to lose the earrings instead of safely wear them.
Also keep in mind if you have metal allergies, the possibility of irritation. Much vintage costume jewelry was made with "pot metal" or "white metal", which usually doesn't contain nickel (the most common metal irritant). However, unless you snag some from the 1943 through 1948 timeframe, they won't be sterling silver, either. Or karat gold.
Costume Jewelry Earrings Material
Rhinestone Earrings by Kramer (Click to Enlarge)
The next is what kinds of materials -- should you get pearls or enamel or rhinestones or...you get the idea.
As always, rhinestones lead the pack, as far as being collectible. The ones packed with "bling" are the most sought-after, but don't discount the ones with just a moderate bling quotient. They are collectable as well, and tend to go with more occasions.
Pearls are certainly up there in collectibility, although not as high as the rhinestones. Still, there are some absolutely gorgeous vintage earrings out there that feature pearls. And if you're a pearl kind of gal, then you will be in heaven! Just remember that the vast majority of pearls are faux pearls, not cultivated, when it comes to vintage costume jewelry.
Plastic (thermoset) earrings are also popular -- there were a lot made in the 1950's and 1960's. These don't command a high a price, but if you find the earrings, keep a watchful eye out for the matching bracelet, necklace and/or brooch -- a set is normally worth more than the sum of its parts.
Enamels are a possibility, but just be sure that the enamels are in excellent condition. The most collectible of the enamels are from the 1930s through 1950s.
Unadorned costume jewelry earrings (those without rhinestones, pearls, etc.) are the least expensive and easily found. If you go this route, look for sets instead of just the earrings. The unadorned earrings by themselves aren't terribly sought-after, except maybe if they are a book piece. However, they are useful for building your beginning collection!
Buying Vintage Costume Jewelry Earrings
All the usual places are spots where you can buy vintage costume jewelry earrings. Online, flea markets, garage sales, estate sales -- all are fertile ground. The trick is to both know what you're looking for, but to be able to recognize a real buy when you see it (like an old going for just a few dollars). This where you need some reference books, like the ones in the beginning your collection post).
Of course my favorite hunting ground is ebay, because I can find a wide array of earrings of all kinds at my fingertips. Below are just a few examples of some of the that are available on ebay. Enjoy the hunt!
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 VINTAGE GOLDTONE CASTLECLIFF WHITE PRONG SET EARRINGS US $21.99
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 VINTAGE GREEN STONE FAUX PEARLS EARRINGS SIGNED CORO US $15.00
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 Vintage Boucher Rhinestone Over The Ear Earrings US $32.57
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 Vintage Clip Earrings with Dangles Napier NR US $4.99
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 RARE VINTAGE SILVER TONE PAVED CRYSTAL PANETTA EARRINGS US $45.00
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 Lisner butterfly earrings clip on US $6.99
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 DESIGNER SIGNED EARRINGS PIN SET ESTATE FIND US $14.95
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 10 Gold Tone Monet Pierced Earrings BIG Rhinestones US $9.99
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 7 Vintage Pierced Earrings Berebi JJ Trifari Carolee US $6.99
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Buying a Costume Jewelry Brooch
A costume jewelry brooch is an excellent way to dive into the wonderful world of vintage jewelry. There are no sizes to worry about, like you'd have with a bracelet or necklace. They don't pinch, like some of the clip earrings can do. Instead, they just lie softly on your jacket or blouse, while you collect the compliments!
First: Decide What You Want
Costume Jewelry Brooch by Lisner (Click to Enlarge)
Yes, that's a loaded statment -- if you're like me, you want it all! But since you likely have to work within a budget of some sort, it's time for your first decision. Are you buying this costume jewelry brooch to wear, as an investment or both? Yes, it may effect what you purchase.
You can see the details in my post on buying signed or unsigned costume jewelry, but basically you need to decide what kind of collection you want to build. In a nutshell, if you only want to wear the jewelry, buy what you like! If you are also interested in the financial appreciation of your investment, other factors come into play.
OK, let's assume that you want to both wear at least some of the jewelry, but keep some of it for investment as well. That being the case, you want to go with signed pieces. You can read more about the designers to begin your collection with here.
What Kind of Costume Jewelry Brooch?
Now that you've decided on which designer(s) you want to target, is there a "best" kind of brooch or pin with which to start?
Rhinestone costume jewelry has a big audience, and you can't go wrong with a quality rhinestone brooch. Not only are they scrumptious to look at, but they tend to hold their value well. Just make sure that all the rhinestones are present and accounted for, and that none are "dead" (i.e. they don't reflect light anymore).
A pearl brooch has a timeless appeal, even if the pearls are faux and not real. Pearls are classy and work for just about any occasion. Make sure all the pearls are in place, and that there are no peeling spots on any of them.
Enameled pins and brooches can be a big draw, depending on the designer -- not all enamels are created equal! You might want to study the auctions for a bit before jumping into the enamel section.
What about a plain goldtone or silvertone brooch? Well, some are anything but plain, but here I mean they aren't adorned with anything else -- just the metalwork. You can usually pick one of these up inexpensively, which is great when you are first building your collection. But the resale value (when you want to upgrade your collection) isn't much. You'll likely just get what you paid for it (which can be just fine, too).
Look Out For...
Here's one I got caught on (almost literally). I bought a costume jewelry brooch without looking well at the back of the brooch. Yep, the pin was short...almost too short! It did manage to make it into the clasp, but it was a near thing. I had been concentrating too hard on reading the designer signature!
Along the same lines, make sure the pin mechanism isn't bent or the clasp catch broken. The vast majority of times in an auction the seller will mention if these problems exist, but looking carefully at photos of the pin back can save you from a pin you can't wear. And if in doubt -- ask! Most sellers are happy to answer questions.
Now I'll speed you on your way with some pretty eye candy of some costume jewelry brooch auctions. Enjoy!
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 Signed Boucher Sparkling Rhinestone Bird Brooch US $76.00
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 Trifari brooch signedPearlsgold toned US $6.00
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 HAND PAINTED BROOCH PIN MARKED LINDNERGERMANYROSES US $6.25
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 Signed and Numbered Rochas Hammered Gold Tone Brooch US $19.00
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 VINTAGE BROOCH PIN PENDANT W RHINESTONES BEAUTIFUL US $9.95
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 VINTAGE MONET BROOCH PIN W RHINESTONES BEAUTIFUL US $7.99
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 BEAD BROOCH PIN W DANGLY STONES BEAUTIFUL US $9.95
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 Vintage Bird Pin Brooch Gold Tone MARVELLA US $7.99
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 Big Vintage Copper Tone Leaf Pin Brooch CORO US $9.99
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