Archive for October, 2008
Trifari Vintage Costume Jewelry
Trifari vintage costume jewelry is both easy to find and also wonderfully collectable. Since Trifari began making jewelry in 1918 and continues even today, there are plenty of jewelry styles from which to choose.
Keep in mind, however, that it's the vintage Trifari jewelry that is most collectable, and pieces made before the 1970s are better.
Rhinestone Costume Jewelry Earrings by Trifari
Let's talk a little about Trifari and the types of jewelry they produced.
Trifari's History
Trifari was originally started by Gustavo Trifari, along with his uncle, Ludovico, and the company was called Trifari & Trifari. Later on, in 1918, Gustavo connected with Leo Krussman and founded Trifari and Krussman. Gustavo designed the pieces and Leo masterfully marketed them.
Jump ahead to 1925 and a gentleman by the name of Carl Fischel joined in the business, and it was renamed Trifari, Krussman & Fischel, which is where the Trifari mark "KTF" was born.
Something wonderful happened in 1930; designer Alfred Phillipe joined the company, and from 1930 through 1968 he was the top designer for the Trifari jewelry. Alfred was responsible for some of the most wonderful of the jewelry designs of those years.
Trifari was the originator of the famous "jelly belly" jewelry that other firms (including Coro) later copied. These were original designed iduring the World War II years, when rhinestones were hard to come by. Lucite had been patented in 1937, and Trifari took advantage of this creation for jewelry.
Marks Trifari Used
Since they have been in business for such a long time, the marks have changed throughout the years. Here's a sampling of the marks used.
- The letter "T" with a crown over the T, 1920.
- "Jewels By" written over "Trifari", with a crown over the T, 1920.
- "KTF", 1935.
- "KTF" with a crown over the T, 1935.
- "Trifari" in normal print, no crown, 1937.
- "Trifari" in normal print but with a thin crown, 1937.
- "Trifari" in long, tall letters, with a crown over the T, 1930-1940.
- "Trifari" in normal print, both with and without the crown, 1940-1950.
- "Trifari Pat.Pend", 1940s.
- "Trifari sterling", 1942-1947.
- "Jewels by" in script before "Trifari" in normal print; a crown over the T, 1940's and 1950s.
- "Trifari" with the copyright symbol and a solid crown, 1954.
- "Trifari" in script, enclosed in a circle, 1970s and 1980s.
- "Trifari" with a copyright symbol, a small crown, and enclosed in a rectangle, modern mark.
Please keep in mind that these are approximate dates, and marks were used until the markings ran out, so don't assume that the dates listed are on spot. They are approximate dates. The only dates that are pretty much "for sure" are the "Trifari sterling" marks.
About Collecting Trifari Costume Jewelry
Since there is a lot of Trifari vintage jewelry out there, look for pieces that are in excellent condition. Pieces that date from before 1947 are the most sought-after, and a bit more wear can be expected from them.
As with most of the large manufactures, sets are normally more collectible than single pieces. And book pieces or jewelry shown in advertisements also bring higher prices.
was well-made and you should be able to easily find a wonderful example of their vintage costume jewelry for your collection. Below you'll see a small sampling of the lovely pieces that are available on ebay. As always, click on the item for a larger photo and additional info.
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Beginning Your Vintage Costume Jewelry Collection
Beginning your vintage costume jewelry collection is both easy and difficult. Easy because there's a wide array of jewelry available, both online and off. Difficult because there's a wide array of jewelry available! So where do you start?
My first suggestion would be to get the book Collecting Costume Jewelry 101: The Basics
(While you're at it, you may as well also pick up Collecting Costume Jewelry 202: Dating Jewelry
OK, so what's next? Well, if you're like me, you couldn't wait to get the book to start. And with starting, I would suggest . Why? Because generally you see the best prices there. If you aren't sure exactly what you want, then you will be able to see all kinds of options to help you decide.
Go With a Signed Piece
In the beginning, I suggest that you start your collection with signed pieces. For one, they are the ones most collectable, and liable to hold their value and appreciate more.
As to the designers, I would choose any of the following: (includes Crown Trifari), Coro (includes Corocraft and Coro Duette),
, Kramer,
,
. These are all established designers that signed their work. There is a large variety of pieces from which to select; you are sure to find something you like!
I would stay away from the following for the time being: JJ, Gerry's, Avon. They are all still too new (or too plentiful) to be considered collectable classic designers. In fact, I have some JJ and Gerry's pieces, but they are ones I bought new back in the late 80's early 90's (before I started collecting). And there is one particular JJ piece I am always on the lookout for anyway, because I like it so very much. But as a beginning collector, you'd have to wait too long for the pieces to really appreciate in price.
What about the designers like Miriam Haskell, Hattie Carnegie, Sarah Coventry and the famous (or infamous) Juliana? They indeed have some very lovely pieces, but just starting out I would avoid them. Why?
I'll start out with and
. They both have absolutely wonderful work, and I love their pieces dearly. But I think you need more of an eye to their values, which you can really only get through time and experience. Not to mention that unless you have a large pocketbook, they will strain your budget.
Sarah Coventry I'm on the fence about. Indeed, made some beautiful pieces, and there's one set in particular that I really, really want -- a demi costume jewelry set that Delizza and Elster designed for Sarah Coventry. But in general, the jewelry is all over the map. Some is very well made and beautiful. Some is just nice. And some looks like it will fall apart if you wear it. So watch the auctions and get used to what Sarah Coventry has to offer before you jump in.
Juliana. I am a huge fan of jewelry, and I can't count the auctions I've lost because lots of other people also adore this gorgeous costume jewelry! But that's not the problem. The problem is that Juliana jewelry was only "signed" with a paper hangtag, which is normally removed before wearing the jewelry -- and naturally was thrown away. So Juliana jewelry isn't marked. And there are a lot of people who think they have Juliana pieces, but they may or may not really be Juliana. You need plenty of experience here before you plunge into this fantastically beautiful vintage jewelry. You just don't want to pay a Juliana price for a Juliana wannabe.
Buying Vintage Costume Jewelry on Ebay
Personally, it's my favorite way to buy vintage costume jewelry, even though I do visit other online sellers from time to time. (Of course when I can get to a flea market that doesn't resemble a mall, I enjoy those as well.)
There are two schools of thought for ebay. First is to jump in and start bidding on the classic designers (Coro, Trifari, etc.). The other is to put everything you like on your watch list. Personally, I do both, and here's why.
If I see an auction that I really want, I'll make a minimum bid on it, then wait. I generally won't bid again until between the last 5 minutes to an hour of the auction (depending on what time the auction ends), when I bid my final amount. Since there are fewer items on my bid list than my watch list, there's less of a chance it will get lost in the shuffle.
If I see an auction I am either just curious about or I'm debating if I should bid, I put it on my watch list. My big problem is that I watch a lot of auctions and I have had some lost in the shuffle. I try to review my watch list a few times a day to decide if I want to bid or pass it by.
If you decide to get your feet wet by buying on ebay, look for three things: a photo of the piece's signature mark, a photo of the entire back of the piece and note in the description as to the condition (i.e. missing rhinestones, more than moderate wear to the finish, etc.). Pass anything by for now that isn't signed, is missing rhinestones or has very visible wear to the finish. (A little wear is OK -- after all, these pieces are 20 to 80 years old.)
To bid on ebay you have to have an account, but it's fast, free and easy to set one up, so no problems there.
Whew! This is a lot of information for you to digest, I know. But in the meanwhile, while you're waiting for your book to come in, here are some beautiful vintage costume jewelry for you to enjoy! As always, click on an item for a larger image and details.
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Coro Costume Jewelry and Vendome
Coro costume jewelry is one of the best-known in the collectable market. Manufactured from 1901 all the way through to 1979 in the US and 1998 in Canada, Coro is an enduring classic.
Coro had two main design "arms". First was the Coro and Corocraft, which specialized in everyday costume jewelry. From simple to glitzy styles, the price range was for the average family.
Rhinestone Costume Jewelry Earrings by Coro
The other side of the design arm was Vendome. Vendome vintage jewelry was aimed at a wealthier audience, with higher-end pieces. Glitz and glamour were the catchwords, and quality was the mainstay when it came to Vendome jewelry.
Coro's History
Coro started business in 1901. The two partners in the business were Emanuel Cohen and Gerald Rosenberg. "Coro" was a blend of the first two letters of their last names (Cohen and Rosenberg).
Neither Emanuel or Gerald were designers, but rather they contracted with talented individuals. Nor did they manufacture the jewelry; it also was contracted out. This left the pair to concentrate on the marketing. And market they did!
By the 1920's Coro jewelry was sold in the five-and-dime stores all across the country. Accessible and affordable, even during the Great Depression they were able to continue making and selling their jewelry. And in 1929, they were able to actually build a manufacturing facility in Providence, Rhode Island. By this time Adolph Katz had joined in, and ultimately it was he who made Coro jewelry so famous.
Adolph oversaw the manufacturing and it's also believed that he carefully selected the designers for the jewelry; it's unclear if he actually designed any himself, though. Three designers that Adolph selected include Francois, Gene Verecchio and Oscar Placco.
In 1943, Coro incorporated to become Coro, Inc. Along the way they made a name for themselves with the Coro Duette, a pin that had two parts that could be worn together or separately. Business was booming!
The Vendome line was added to the company shortly after incorporating, but the majority of the pieces were manufactured after about 1953, and all the way up through 1979.
Coro continued manufacturing jewelry up through 1979 (1998 in Canada), then closed their doors. Meanwhile, they contributed so very much to the popularity and history of costume jewelry.
Jewelry Marks Used
Coro used quite a few marks spanning the years, and they didn't necessarily abandon one when they brought out another. Therefore, it can be difficult to date Coro pieces, based on their marks. The exception is that anything with a copyright symbol was manufactured after 1955.
Here are some of the most common marks used for Coro costume jewelry:
- "Coro" in script, written at an angle or with no angle was first used in 1919.
- "Duette" and "Coro Duette" in script was first used in 1931.
- "Coro Craft" in script, 1935.
- "Corocraft" in script, written at an angle with a Pegasus, 1938. This mark also appeared without the Pegasus at the same time.
- "Coro" in a thick script, 1940.
- "Coro" in script, at an angle with a Pegasus, 1945.
- Pegasus next to an empty rectangle, 1945.
- "Made in Mexico" in a small circle, "Coro" and "silver" dates are from 1943 through 1950.
- "Coro" in script with the copyright symbol, dates from 1956.
Now for the Vendome marks...
- "Vendome" with a large V on an oval cartouche, used from 1944 through 1979.
- "Vendome" impressed into the metal, also 1944 through 1979.
Whew! Like I said before, Coro has a long history in the jewelry business.
Collecting Coro and Vendome Vintage Jewelry
Everyone should have a piece of Coro and/or Vendome costume jewelry in their collection (unless you are specializing in one specific manufacturer). Coro is very collectable, and prices are reasonable for a beginning collection. Vendome pieces are a little more expensive, but can still be had for a reasonable price.
Coro is all over the map when it comes to style. Ranging from simple pieces, through plastic and all the way up to glitzy rhinestones, there's something for everyone.
Some of the most collectable Coro pieces are the . A Duette in excellent condition with all parts working can easily command prices in the hundreds, especially if they are a book piece.
I expect you want to look and see what kinds of offerings are available for sale! You can see a and
with these links, and you can see a very small sample of Coro below. Enjoy!
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 2CORO BROOCHES PINS  US $4.99
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 VINTAGE CORO SIGNED YELLOW AND GOLDEN RHINESTONE NECKLACE SET STUNNING US $81.00
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 LOT OF 2 VINTAGE CORO BRACELETS GOLDTONE CLAMPER STRETCHY FLORAL US $9.99
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 Vendome Rhinestone Turquoise Bead Earrings US $12.00
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 Vintage VENDOME FAUX PEARL 2 Strand Necklace Goldtone Clasp Rhinestone US $24.95
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 DAZZLING VENDOME WATERMELON RIVOLI Brooch Pin US $99.99
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Kramer Vintage Jewelry
Rhinestone Costume Jewelry Earrings by Kramer
Kramer jewelry was also well-made from the beginning, so that today much of it is still in good working order. As always you have to watch out for missing rhinestones, but since they were generally prong set, it's less of a problem than if they were pasted in.
Kramer's History
The company Kramer Jewelry Creations, Inc. was formed in 1943, in New York. It was a family-run business, with Louis, Morris and Harry Kramer all involved (although Louis was the actual founder and driving force). Louis was also the main designer of this lovely vintage costume jewelry line, although Morris also did some design work.
Kramer jewelry is definitely vintage, as the company ceased operation in the 1979-1980 time frame. That means even the newest of the jewelry is well over the 20-year-old mark for being vintage.
Jewelry Marks Used by Kramer
The most common mark is the name KRAMER in upper-case letters; this mark was the original one that first appeared in 1943, and continued through thr years.
"Christian Dior by Kramer" was a mark used mainly in the 1950's and 1960's, but the exact starting year is a little unclear. Jewelry signed with this mark makes it a bit more collectable than just the regular Kramer mark, with correspondingly higher prices.
"Kramer of New York" is another mark used, appearing in an raised oval. A mark "Kramer of New York City" is also sometimes seen. Neither of these marks seems to be more collectable than the other.
"Kramer Sterling" was naturally used on the sterling silver pieces. Exact start date for this makr is unknown, but it's quite collectable.
"Amourelle" is the rarest of the Kramer marks, and it first appeared in 1963. Quite naturally, it's sought after and priced higher.
About Collecting Kramer Vintage Costume Jewelry
You can rarely go wrong choosing to buy a Kramer piece. The jewelry holds its value well, and there is definitely an active market. This means that both buying and (eventually) selling is easy.
Kramer definitely has some high-end pieces that go for a lot of money. However, you can also find jewelry items suitable for smaller pocketbooks. If you're on a budget, you can find some nice signed Kramer examples to start your collection.
Kramer should be in excellent condition, and sets are always preferable. However, since Kramer is a good investment, even items that are slightly (emphasis on slightly) worn or missing a rhinestone or two can be a good value (providing you can easily find a matching rhinestone). Just make sure that if the piece isn't in excellent condition or is missing stones, that you don't pay a first-quality price.
While there isn't a huge variety of jewelry types, rhinestones being the main attractions, Kramer did make vintage jewelry with pearls and also with plastic. There is a wide selection in the price range, though, with the glitzier pieces and sets generally commanding the highest prices.
Kramer vitnage costume jewelry is an excellent choice for anyone beginning a jewelry collection. It's also ideal if you like to wear your collection! Here's a , but you can see a sample shown below (you can click on an item for more detail).
Enjoy shopping for your Kramer pieces!
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